You are buying directly from the growers, not a third party.

Our grafted trees are 26 – 30″ tall. They are staked and pruned to start the first branching.

We grow our trees in the same pot that we grow commercial trees. It is a 4 inch square pot that is 14″ tall to allow for good root development.

Our “citri-pot” is equivalent to a “1 gallon” capacity.

This “sleeve” is perfect for shipping because you get the entire root ball and soil rather than “bare root.”

Getting the soil with the tree greatly increases your success with your new citrus tree.

We offer trees grafted on standard rootstocks that will mature between 12 - 15 feet tall if planted in the ground.

We also offer dwarf rootstocks for some varieties. Dwarf rootstocks limit the mature size of the tree to between 8 - 9 feet if planted in the ground or smaller if kept in containers.

We now offer a rooted cutting/bush type plant in a few varieties. This is a smaller plant, perfect for container growth indoors.

Registered users can sign up to be notified when stock is replenished. Just go to the item that you would like to order and fill out your name and email. When new inventory is listed, you will receive an email. Emails are sent to the oldest entries first. We apologize that some items do have long waiting lists. Thanks in advance for your patience! 

Due to the widespread occurrence of Citrus Canker and Citrus Greening (Huanglongbing), the USDA placed the entire state of Florida under quarantine. It is against the law to ship or move trees outside the state unless you receive USDA certification and comply with the USDA compliance agreement. It is still against regulations to ship trees or citrus plant material to California, Texas, Arizona, Louisiana, Hawaii and US Territories. This regulation exists to protect the citrus industry in those states/territories. Likewise, it is illegal to bring citrus plant material into Florida from anywhere! Please don't be the one that spreads a citrus disease!

No, the same rules exist for you as they do for us. Citrus plant material cannot be moved from Florida to any other citrus producing state. These include Arizona, California, Hawaii, Louisiana, and Texas. We also cannot send plants to Puerto Rico, Guam, US Virgin Islands, American Samoa, and the Northern Mariana Islands. These are state rules that are in place to prevent the spread of citrus diseases.

For grafted trees, we recommend a pot that is at least 14″ deep and around 16″ in diameter. This keeps you from having to cut off part of the roots to fit in the container. A 10 gallon equivalent container works great. If you need to start in a smaller container, then cut the bottom of the roots, but never bend the tap root.

For rooted cuttings, the root ball on this plant is approximately 5″ x 7″, so you want a container that is at least 10″ deep to allow for root growth. A 5 gallon pot is a good place to start.

When you receive our trees, the standard and dwarf grafted trees are both 26 – 30″ tall. The difference is that the dwarf tree is grafted onto a rootstock that limits the mature size of the tree to around 8 – 9 feet tall and wide. The dwarf tree is also more suited to container growing because the rootstock will not outgrow the container as quickly as a standard grafted rootstock. Most standard rootstock trees will mature at between 12 – 15 feet tall and wide if planted in the ground. Containers will restrict the mature size of the trees as well.

Standard and Dwarf grafted trees are approximately 26 – 30″ from the soil line to the top of the tree.

Our grafted trees are normally between 1 - 2 years old.

Fruit production depends on age of tree and care. Typically, our trees will bear a few pieces of fruit within two years after you receive it. The amount of fruit will increase each year. Some citrus varieties are more prolific (kumquats, limes, calamondins), so you will have more fruit in the first year.

Don’t forget to “feed” your trees so they will feed you! The use of a balanced fertilizer is critical to fruit production. See our Care Guides page for more recommendations.

To see when you can expect to harvest your citrus fruit, please refer to this Harvest Chart.

We recommend planting standard trees 15 feet apart. You can plant closer, but pruning will be needed at some point.

Dwarf trees can be planted 8 feet apart if planted in the ground.

Dwarf – up to 8 feet tall in the ground, less if kept in a pot.

All others – 12 – 15 feet tall in the ground, less if kept in a pot (more pruning will be required to keep in pot).

Citrus trees respond well to pruning. You can do it almost anytime. It is best to prune when the tree is not blooming to avoid cutting off fruit. Also keep in mind that citrus produces fruit on second year growth, so if you overprune, you are cutting off future fruit production areas.

For illustrated instructions on pruning, please refer to this Pruning Guide.

Many people ask, why you have to use a greenhouse when in sunny Florida? State of Florida CFR 5B-62 requires that all citrus nursery trees be produced inside enclosed, insect-free structures. Any propagating citrus nursery in Florida is legally required to have a greenhouse with screen on all sides with a “double entrance” and positive air pressure to prevent insects entering the structure. In our case, we also relocated our nursery from a heavy citrus production area to an area with no commercial citrus to further protect from diseases and insects. Prior to January 1, 2007, most citrus nursery trees in Florida were grown outside.

HLB - Huanglongbing aka Citrus greening is a disease caused by a bacterium that can infect most citrus varieties and some ornamental plants. It was first detected in the US in August 2005 in south Florida. It causes the tree to produce small, unprocessable fruit. The tree will eventually die. To learn more about citrus greening, download this Citrus Greening PDF or read our full guide What Every Grower Should Know

▸My citrus tree is dropping leaves. Is this normal?

Some leaf drop is completely normal — citrus trees naturally shed older leaves as part of their growth cycle. What's notnormal is sudden, heavy leaf loss all at once. If your tree is dropping a handful of older, yellowing leaves here and there while continuing to push new growth, that's ordinary maintenance, not a problem. If it's losing most or all of its leaves in a short period, one of the causes below is likely at play.

▸Why did my tree drop its leaves right after I brought it indoors for winter?

This is by far the most common cause of leaf drop we hear about, and it's almost always transplant/environmental shock, not disease. When a tree is suddenly moved indoors for winter, it experiences a sharp drop in humidity, less direct light, and a change in temperature all at once — and it responds by shedding leaves to conserve energy while it adjusts. As long as the branches stay green and flexible when gently scratched or bent, the tree is alive and will typically push new growth once conditions stabilize.

▸My leaves turned yellow or developed dark, water-soaked patches before dropping. Is this cold/freeze damage?

Yes, this is a classic sign of cold or freeze injury. Ice forming inside the leaf cells damages the cell walls, which shows up as dark, water-soaked spots followed by yellowing and drop. The severity depends on how cold it got, how long the cold lasted, and how well-established the tree already was. If your tree was exposed to temperatures below 40°F, especially for an extended period, this is the most likely explanation — and unfortunately something we can't warranty once a tree has left our greenhouse (see our Winter Shipping Alert).

▸I just repotted my tree and now it's dropping leaves. Did I do something wrong?

Not necessarily — some leaf drop after repotting is a normal part of transplant shock as the roots adjust to their new container and soil. To help your tree recover:

• Water consistently, but don't overdo it — the goal is steady moisture, not soggy soil.
• Keep the tree out of harsh direct sun or wind for a week or two while it re-establishes.
• Hold off on fertilizing heavily until you see new growth resume.
• Avoid repotting during the coldest or hottest parts of the year if you can help it.

▸Could I be overwatering or underwatering my tree?

Both can cause leaf drop, but they tend to look a little different:

• Overwatering is the more common mistake. It leads to root stress and yellowing that often starts from the bottom of the tree upward, and in more serious cases, root rot.
• Underwatering/drought stress tends to show up as yellowing starting from the leaf tips inward, along with a wilted appearance.

A simple check: press a finger about two inches into the soil before watering again. If it's still moist, hold off.

▸Could pests be causing my leaves to drop?

Yes — a few common citrus pests can cause leaf drop, discoloration, or curling:

• Aphids — look for sticky residue (honeydew) and curled new growth.
• Scale insects — small waxy bumps along stems and leaf undersides.
• Spider mites — see below; a heavy infestation can cause complete leaf drop on its own.

Both aphids and scale are treatable; if you're not sure what you're looking at, send us a photo and we're happy to help identify it.

▸What about spider mites — how do I know if that's the problem?

Spider mites are tiny (barely visible without a magnifying glass) and are actually more closely related to spiders and ticks than insects, but they can do serious damage to citrus. Look for:

• Fine, faint webbing on the undersides of leaves or between leaves and stems
• Stippled, speckled, or dull yellowing leaves — the mites feed by sucking sap, which gives the foliage a dry, dusty look
• A general decline in vigor with no obvious pest visible to the naked eye

Spider mites thrive in hot, dry conditions — they multiply fastest during dry spells or on trees kept in warm, low-humidity indoor environments over winter, and a heavy infestation can cause complete leaf drop if left unchecked. They tend to slow down in cool, wet weather.

What to do:

• For outdoor trees, a firm spray of water from the hose (focused on the undersides of leaves, where mites congregate) can knock down populations significantly.
• Neem oil or a horticultural oil spray, wiped or sprayed on the underside of leaves, smothers mites effectively and is gentler on beneficial insects than harsher chemical miticides.
• Keeping your tree well-watered and avoiding prolonged drought stress makes it less hospitable to mites in the first place.
• For home citrus, chemical miticides are rarely necessary — they're really only warranted for serious, established infestations. If you're seeing heavy webbing or rapid decline, send us a photo and we can help you assess how serious it is.

▸My tree lost all of its leaves. Is it dead?

Not necessarily. Check the branches: if they're still green and flexible (rather than dry, gray, and brittle), the tree is alive and has a good chance of recovering with the right care, even if it looks completely bare for a while. New growth typically returns once conditions improve and the tree has had time to recover from whatever stress caused the drop.

▸What can I do to help my tree recover from leaf drop?

• Resume a normal, consistent watering routine once you've identified whether over- or under-watering played a role.
• Once new growth starts, feed with a balanced citrus fertilizer to support recovery — see our Care Guides page for our recommendations.
• If your tree is indoors, consider a humidifier or occasional light misting to help offset the drier indoor air.
• Give it time. Recovery from leaf drop is usually measured in weeks to a couple of months, not days.

▸When should I reach out to Brite Leaf for help?

If you're not sure what's causing your tree's leaf drop, or if it's continuing to decline rather than stabilize, send us a photo — it's the fastest way for us to help you figure out what's going on. Please email your name, contact information, and pictures to us, and we're glad to help point you in the right direction.

Most insects you see on a citrus tree are harmless or only cosmetic, and a healthy, well-fed tree can outgrow a lot of chewing and leaf damage.

Which insects attack citrus trees in Florida?

Citrus hosts a long list of insects, but only a few cause real trouble for home growers. The ones you are most likely to see are:

• Citrus Leafminer – tiny moth larvae that tunnel through new leaves (see below).
• Grasshoppers, especially the large eastern lubber – chew holes in leaves (see below).
• Asian citrus psyllid – a small insect that spreads citrus greening (HLB), the most serious citrus disease in Florida.
• Aphids, whiteflies, scale insects and mealybugs – sap-feeders that leave sticky honeydew and black sooty mold.
• Mites (rust mites, spider mites) – cause bronzed or speckled leaves and scarred fruit.
• Orange dog caterpillars – the larvae of the giant swallowtail butterfly; they look like bird droppings and eat leaves.

Does every insect I see need to be treated?

No. Many insects on your tree are harmless visitors or helpful predators, such as lady beetles, lacewings, spiders and tiny parasitic wasps. Mature, healthy trees can tolerate a fair amount of leaf damage without losing fruit. Treat only when a pest is present in numbers that threaten the tree's growth or crop, which matters most on young trees.

How do I keep my trees from getting bad insect problems?

We recommend Integrated Pest Management (IPM), which means using several simple steps before reaching for a spray:

1. Keep the tree healthy. Plant in full sun with good drainage, water regularly, and fertilize with a citrus fertilizer as directed. Stressed trees attract more pests.
2. Scout weekly. Look at new growth ("flush") and the undersides of leaves. Most pests show up first on tender new leaves.
3. Remove pests by hand when practical, and prune out small, heavily infested shoots.
4. Keep weeds and tall grass down around the tree, since they shelter grasshoppers and other pests.
5. Protect natural enemies. Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides unless you really need them, because they also kill the beneficial insects that keep pests in check.
6. Use the mildest effective product first, such as horticultural oil or insecticidal soap.

What should I know before using any insecticide?

• Read and follow the label. The label is the law. Make sure it lists citrus and the pest you are treating.
• Check the pre-harvest interval on the label if your tree has fruit you plan to eat.
• Spray oils in the cool of the morning. Do not apply horticultural oil when temperatures will be above about 90°F, or on drought-stressed trees, as it can burn leaves.
• Protect pollinators. Avoid spraying open blooms, and spray in early morning or evening when bees are less active.
• Do not over-fertilize with nitrogen. Too much nitrogen pushes out extra soft new growth, which many pests prefer.

What is citrus greening, and why does it matter?

Citrus greening (Huanglongbing, or HLB) is a bacterial disease spread by the Asian citrus psyllid. It has no cure and slowly weakens trees. Watching for psyllids on new flush and keeping trees well fed are the best defenses for home growers. If you suspect greening, contact your county UF/IFAS Extension office.

Citrus Leafminer (Phyllocnistis citrella) is a very small silvery moth, with a wingspan of only about 4 mm. Adults are rarely seen because they fly in the early morning and evening. The female lays eggs on the underside of young, tender leaves, and the larvae tunnel inside the leaf. It is found throughout Florida and attacks all types of citrus.

How do I know if my tree has leafminer?

Look at the newest leaves for:

• Winding, silvery trails ("mines") just under the leaf surface.
• Curled, twisted or distorted new leaves.
• A rolled-over leaf edge, where the larva has tucked itself in to pupate.

Damage appears only on new flush. Once leaves have hardened off and turned dark green, leafminers can no longer attack them.

Will leafminer kill my tree?

No, leafminer does not kill citrus trees. On mature trees, the damage is mostly cosmetic and usually does not need treatment. On young trees, heavy infestations can slow growth because the tree loses much of its new leaf area. Leafminer wounds can also give citrus canker bacteria an easy way into the leaf, which is another reason to protect young trees.

When is leafminer worst?

Leafminer follows the tree's growth flushes, since it needs soft new leaves. A new generation can develop in about three weeks, so numbers build quickly during warm weather. Expect the most damage on the summer and fall flushes.

How do I control leafminer?

1. Don't panic about old damage. Leave mined leaves on the tree. They still feed the tree, and removing them sets it back further.
2. Fertilize correctly. Avoid extra nitrogen, which causes more frequent, soft flushes that leafminer loves.
3. Spray horticultural oil during new flush. Oil labeled for citrus makes leaves less attractive for egg-laying. Spray every 10–14 days while the tree is flushing, until leaves harden off. Apply in early morning, before it gets hot.
4. Spinosad (an organic-approved insecticide) labeled for citrus is another homeowner option for young trees during heavy flush periods.
5. Let natural enemies work. Tiny parasitic wasps and other predators attack leafminer larvae, and broad-spectrum sprays can wipe them out.
6. Squash pupae under rolled leaf edges with your fingernail if you have just a few on a small tree.

Sprays cannot reach larvae already inside the leaf, so the goal is to protect the next flush rather than cure leaves that are already mined. On young trees, a systemic soil drench can reach larvae inside the leaf (see Systemic Insecticides FAQ)

Which grasshoppers damage citrus in Florida?

The one our customers see most is the eastern lubber grasshopper (Romalea microptera). Adults are large (up to about 3 inches), heavy-bodied and mostly yellow or tan with black and red markings. Young lubbers (nymphs) look very different: they are black with a yellow, orange or red stripe and often cluster together on a single plant. The American (bird) grasshopper, a light brown strong flier, can also feed on citrus.

What damage do they cause?

Grasshoppers chew ragged holes in leaves and nibble leaf tips and edges. Lubbers usually eat a little, then move on to the next leaf or plant. In large numbers they can strip a young tree of most of its leaves, which slows its growth. Mature trees generally recover.

When are lubbers active?

Lubbers hatch from eggs laid in the soil and appear as small black nymphs in spring, usually March to April. They grow through summer, with the most adults in July and August, and die off by about October to November. There is one generation per year.

How do I control grasshoppers?

1. Start early. Young nymphs are much easier to control than adults. Check your trees in spring and act when you see clusters of small black grasshoppers.
2. Hand-pick them. Lubbers are slow and clumsy and cannot fly, so picking is effective for home growers. Wear gloves, drop them into a bucket of soapy water, then bag and discard them.
3. Mow and weed. Lubbers hide and feed in weedy areas, ditches and tall grass. Keeping the ground around your trees clean reduces the number that move onto citrus.
4. Let predators help. Birds such as the loggerhead shrike, plus other wildlife, eat grasshoppers.
5. Use insecticide only if needed, and early. Sprays work best on young nymphs; adults are hard to kill with chemicals. Look for products labeled for citrus that contain bifenthrin, cyhalothrin, permethrin, esfenvalerate or spinosad, and follow the label exactly.

Are lubber grasshoppers dangerous?

They do not bite people in any harmful way, but they are toxic if eaten, which is why many animals avoid them. When disturbed, lubbers hiss and release a foul-smelling foam. Wear gloves when handling them and keep pets from eating them.

What caterpillar is eating my citrus leaves?

In Florida, it is almost always the orangedog, the caterpillar of the giant swallowtail butterfly (Papilio cresphontes). Young orangedogs are brown and white and look remarkably like bird droppings. They grow to about 1.5 to 2 inches long. When disturbed, they push out a pair of orange "horns" from behind the head and give off a strong odor. The adult is a large black butterfly with bold yellow bands.

What damage do they cause?

Orangedogs chew citrus leaves and prefer young, tender growth. You'll usually see chewed leaf edges, small dark droppings on the leaves below, and the caterpillars themselves. On a mature tree, a few caterpillars do little harm. On young or potted trees, several caterpillars can strip most of the leaves in under a week.

How do I control orangedogs?

1. Check new growth often. Look for the small, round, orange eggs on the tops of new leaves and for young caterpillars.
2. Hand-pick them. This is the simplest and most effective control for home trees. Remove eggs and caterpillars and destroy them, or move them to a mature citrus tree or another host plant such as rue or fennel.
3. Use Bt if needed. For heavy infestations on young trees, a product containing Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) labeled for citrus controls caterpillars and is safe for people, pets, bees and other beneficial insects. Spinosad is another option. Both work best on small caterpillars.

Should I leave some for the butterflies?

If your tree is well established, consider it. Mature trees easily tolerate a few caterpillars, and you'll be rewarded with one of Florida's largest and most beautiful butterflies. Some gardeners even plant citrus to attract them. Save hand-picking and Bt for young trees, where leaf loss really matters.

What is a systemic insecticide?

A systemic insecticide is absorbed by the roots and carried up through the tree into the leaves and stems. Insects that feed on the treated tree are killed, including pests hidden where sprays can't reach, like leafminer larvae inside the leaf. Imidacloprid is the most common systemic for home citrus. It is sold in homeowner soil-drench products labeled for citrus, such as BioAdvanced Fruit, Citrus & Vegetable Insect Control (0.235% imidacloprid).

Which pests does it help with?

Imidacloprid controls sap-feeding insects and pests that feed on new flush, including:

• Asian citrus psyllid, which spreads citrus greening
• Citrus Leafminer
• Aphids, whiteflies, mealybugs and some scale insects

It does little against mites, and it is not a good choice for grasshoppers.

Which trees benefit most?

Young, non-bearing trees benefit the most. A soil drench protects the new flush that psyllids and leafminers attack, and young trees are the ones that lose the most growth to those pests. On large, mature trees, soil drenches are less reliable for leafminer, so horticultural oil sprays during flush are usually the better choice there.

How and when do I apply it?

1. Read the label first. Use only a product labeled for citrus and follow its rate for your tree's size.
2. Drench the soil at the base of the trunk. Mix with water as directed and pour it slowly onto moist soil right around the trunk so the roots can take it up.
3. Apply ahead of new growth. The product needs time to move through the tree: about a week on small trees and up to a few months on large ones. Treat about two weeks before you expect a flush.
4. Don't treat more often than the label allows. Homeowner products are designed for one application per season. Extra applications don't improve control.
5. Check the pre-harvest interval on the label before picking fruit to eat.

Is imidacloprid safe for bees?

No, imidacloprid is highly toxic to bees, and bees can be exposed through the nectar and pollen of treated trees. Never apply it while your tree is blooming or about to bloom. Don't let it drift onto flowering weeds or nearby plants. Applying after bloom and ahead of the summer and fall flushes protects your tree without putting pollinators at risk.

Can I rely on a systemic alone?

No, use it as one tool, not the only one. Combine it with good fertilization, weekly scouting and horticultural oil during flush. Using imidacloprid only when it's needed helps protect beneficial insects and slows the chance of pests becoming resistant.

Where Can I Get More Help?

• Your county UF/IFAS Extension office can identify insects and answer questions about your trees. Find your local office.
• Ask IFAS has free, research-based fact sheets on citrus pests: Eastern Lubber Grasshopper and Other Insect Pests of Florida Citrus.
• Contact Brite Leaf Citrus Nursery. Send us a photo of the insect or damage and we'll be glad to help.

Sources

• UF/IFAS experts give tips to manage the eastern lubber grasshopper – UF/IFAS News
• How to Manage Citrus Leafminer in Your Backyard – UF/IFAS Extension
• Other Insect Pests of Florida Citrus (HS142) – Ask IFAS
• Eastern Lubber Grasshopper (EENY-006) – Ask IFAS
• 2026–2027 Florida Citrus Production Guide: Asian Citrus Psyllid (CG104) – Ask IFAS
• Management of Citrus Leafminer, Citrus Industry (2006) – UF/IFAS CREC
• Imidacloprid 0.235% Fruit, Citrus & Vegetable Insect Control label – U.S. EPA